This is such an unusual, heartbreaking time in our country. A pandemic swirls around us, causing businesses to close–some never to reopen again–millions of citizens to become unemployed, and sadly, even the outdoor spaces that we use as our escape from the world have shut their gates. Luckily, our country has seen some light at the end of the tunnel, and places have begun the slow process of reopening, including state and national parks. While thousands flocked to beaches and overcrowded pools over Memorial Day weekend, my wife and I chose to spend our holiday weekend in the woods.
I live in Indiana–just two states away from Missouri–but I have never even stepped foot inside its borders. Well, it was time for that to change! We embarked on a road trip; our first stop was St. Louis to explore Gateway Arch National Park. This National Park was definitely different than all the others that we’ve hiked and explored; this one lie in the middle of the bustling downtown of St. Louis. Typically, our protected national parks are littered with waterfalls, mountains, alpine lakes, and thousands of acres of land. Landscapes vary from desert to wetland to tundra. This national park, however, lie just beyond towering skyscrapers and across a highway bridge, and its grounds were filled with quiet grassy areas, shade trees and a long river backdropping its main event, the arch. The faint sound of the highway below made it quite a different experience than the other national parks we’ve visited, but it is definitely a must-see due to its striking infrastructure and contrasting quiet, rolling hills that are perfect for a blanketed picnic. The impressive, 630-foot arch that stretches over the city’s landscape–the tallest arch in the world–didn’t disappoint. I felt as small as an ant when I stood beneath its stark metal construction; I tilted my head and squinted my eyes against the sunlight as the rays glistened against the arch.
A few fun facts that you probably didn’t know about Gateway Arch:
The arch is as tall as it is wide.
The arch is 630 feet tall and 630 feet wide. If you look at it from the side, it appears as though it is much taller than it is wide; a peak from the center will reveal its true specs.
Forty blocks of downtown St. Louis were demolished to build the arch and its surrounding park grounds.
Dozens of warehouses, businesses and buildings were bulldozed in order to begin construction.
The two legs of the arch were built separately, and if their measurements were off by as little as 1/64th of an inch, they wouldn’t have been able to join at the top.
Many speculated that the arch construction would fail due to the likely possibility of a mistake. But it didn’t!
The insurance company for the project predicted that 13 workers would die during construction.
No one died during construction. The only death that was associated with the arch was of a man who leapt from a plane, parachuted to the top of the arch, and attempted to jump to the ground. His parachute failed to deploy, and he tragically fell to his death in 1980.
Presidents aren’t allowed to go to the top.
The only president who was allowed to go to the top of the arch was Dwight D. Eisenhower because he was the one to sign the construction order in 1954. The Secret Service forbade all future presidents from ascending the arch due to security and safety concerns.
It is the tallest monument in the United States and the tallest man-made arch in the world.
It stands at a staggering 630 feet tall.
The grand opening of the arch was in 1965.
A construction order was signed in 1954, but it wasn’t completed until 1965.
It was formally known as Jefferson National Expansion Memorial until it became an official national park in 2018.
Gateway Arch were designated as a national memorial in 1935, but it became the 60th U.S. National Park on February 22, 2018. It is now maintained and protected by the National Park Service.
Though the interior of the Arch was temporarily closed due to COVID-19, we were still able to explore the park surrounding the arch and walk along the river that flowed behind the grounds, all free of charge. There is plenty of parking in downtown St. Louis with cheap rates and close proximities to the arch, allowing you to be able to explore the national park and walk around downtown. Though we explored the arch on Memorial Day weekend, we were among only a couple dozen people walking the premises. Once we crossed the bridge with traffic rushing below, we were transported into a quieter, slower-paced atmosphere. It most certainly didn’t feel as though we were in downtown–the only giveaway was the faint sound of traffic rushing below. Someday, we’d love to go back, ascend the arch, and view the downtown landscapes from above.
An hour south of St. Louis, there is a plethora of hiking options. In our short window of time, we chose to explore Elephant Rocks State Park, Johnson’s Shut-Ins State Park, Taum Sauk Mountain State Park, and Pickle Springs Natural Area.
Elephant Rocks was a unique, boulder-hopping oasis. A two-mile trail weaved its way through the park, but the adventure didn’t end there. A smattering of massive rocks and boulders dotted the grounds, allowing you to explore at your own pace and in your own direction. No clear path was indicated; exploration and imagination were encouraged. We scaled boulders the size of planets. Many rocks were in odd shapes, one an elephant–hence, the park’s name! The further we explored, the more we discovered. At the back of the park lie a quiet pond, with towering cliffs reflecting against its surface. Every spot along the trails provided a different, exclusive perspective of the park. You could view the water from above along the towering, rocky cliffs, weave around the base of the pond, or scale massive boulders to view a tree-smattered valley below.
We squeezed through tight openings between granite boulders, scaled the tops of rocks in an effort to get an aerial view of the valley below, and hiked to the base level of the grounds to stare at the towering rocks above. No matter what view we had or what area of the park we were in, we were blessed with a unique landscape that looked different than it did five steps ago. It is truly a perfect park for adventure-seekers, climbers, and rock scramblers! I saw young children and elderly couples alike enjoying the views and hiking the boulders at their own pace. There is truly something to do for every age at this fascinating oasis tucked into Southeast Missouri.
Our next stop was Johnson’s Shut-Ins State Park. The park didn’t open until 8AM, which is a pretty late start compared to when we usually like to begin hiking for the day, so we made sure we were among the first ones there. Sure enough, at 7:55, we were the second car to arrive, leaving us with two hours of almost complete solitude. If you are familiar with this park, you will know that solitude is rare, if not impossible. This park is a hotspot for families and hikers alike, so we were blessed to be able to enjoy the area devoid of crowds before the tourists began rolling in around 10.
After embarking on the main trailhead to the shut-ins, we quickly found out why the park was given its name. A quiet river flowed to our left before violently crashing into the thousands of boulders that blocked the natural passageway of the water. The shut-ins interrupted the streams’ flow, blocking entry due to narrow passageways and strong rapids. A complex smattering of waterfalls, pools, rapids, and rivulets carved through the mountain range, giving our eyes plenty to absorb. Beyond the shut-ins, where the rocks were less frequent or nonexistent, the silent stream flowed quietly once again. It was truly an interesting sight, and the river is a perfect spot for swimming, adventuring and exploring! We boulder hopped, rock climbed, and sank our feet into the stream while the sun rose above the tree-lined mountains. Eighty degree weather engulfed us at nine in the morning, so we welcomed the wet spots to cool off. This park is absolutely perfect for avid hikers and free-spirited children alike; there are plenty of trails to hike and plenty of swimming holes and natural water slides for all ages to enjoy!
Our next stop was Taum Sauk Mountain State Park. We chose to hike the three-mile Mina Sauk Falls Trail, which branched off along the famous Ozark Trail. Aside from the odd, off-roading RC race that we witnessed at the trailhead, most of the trail was peaceful and mildly shaded with a canopy of vibrantly bright green trees. About two miles in, the trees opened up to reveal a flat, rocky area that provided sweeping views of the valley. It was around this spot that I said out loud, “It feels as though we’re the last two people on this planet.” Its quiet serenity was alluring as we weaved through the rest of the path.
Arriving at the falls, we were unprepared. The trail ended at the top of the waterfall, where the water tumbled off the cliff. View of the falls appeared impossible, obstructed by trees and the sudden, steep drop-off no matter which angle we accessed it. Anyone who knows me is aware of my intense love of waterfalls, and I will do almost anything to draw in their breathtaking beauty and soak in their chilly spray. So with a fierce determination, I scaled the side of the mountain, down precarious rocks and treacherously steep hills. Finally, I reached the base of the falls, and I stared up at the 30 foot waterfall that continued down a series of ledges another 130 feet. I soaked in the view and the spray for a few minutes before making my way back up. I grabbed my phone, which I had left sitting on my hiking bag on a flat rock. As I went to put it in my back pocket, it slipped out of my hand, and, you guessed it, it tumbled all the way down to the base of the falls and into the pool below. My momentary shock and disbelief dissipated in seconds, replaced by determination. With the help of my wife–and now the many spectators who watched with amusement from above–I combed through the murky pool in search of my precious, expensive device. Discouragement began to seize me as minutes rolled by with no sign of my phone despite my desperate attempts. I stared regretfully down the cascading ledges, assuming the worse: that my phone had tumbled out of the pool and down the cascades, forever out of my reach. But just when that discouragement set in, my hand miraculously grazed over my phone that was wedged in between two rocks. I held it up in victory, and a dozen spectators applauded. I learned two things from this mishap:
–I will always be a loyal Apple customer. Not only did my phone work perfectly, but there were no scratches. (If your iPhone tumbles down a 100-foot rocky cliff and submerges into a murky, natural pool for five minutes, your phone will still be in 100% working condition!)
–My phone will now be secured in my hiking bag at all times.
Despite the mishap, the trail was one of my favorites of the trip. And hey, I came back with another great story to share!
The fifth and final stop of our Missouri road trip ended at Pickle Springs Natural Area. Inside the borders of the natural area was a unique, two-mile trail, packed with mini waterfalls, rock formations, sandstone cliffs, and deep canyons. There are sixteen points of interest along the path, which will keep you engaged and excited to see the next spot. Make sure to grab a map or snap a photo of the map at the trailhead because you will want to follow along while you wind through the trail! Some of the points of interests include Cauliflower Rocks, The Slot, The Keyhole, and Spirit Canyon.
Whenever we embark on a hiking adventure to a different state, we always have a rough itinerary but make sure we allow for plenty of room for flexibility and spontaneity. In this case, we spontaneously decided to make a pitstop at Pickle Springs, and we were super glad we did. Something about spontaneity is so exciting and almost crucial for adventuring. You have to be willing to be flexible and add or subtract destinations depending on traffic, time, weather conditions, etc. Be open to new destinations; keep your eyes peeled for those dark brown signs that line the highways! You never know what exciting adventure lie just around the corner.
Happy hiking!
Wonder. Wander. Repeat. 